Church, Crosses and Cats

(Just in case you didn't know, I am a huge fan of alliteration) : )

Seagulls sipping on the suddenly softened snow

Finally, I found a church that I feel comfortable in! Perhaps it was the fact that it had more than five people in attendance, or that there was actually a sermon (though still no real priest), or that the people were very helpful to show me which books to use. It was an Anglican church, but I was familiar with all of the hymns.

After church, Marg's daughter and husband (Marg was the nice lady I met on the plane to Cambridge Bay), as well as her niece and her boyfriend, invited me out to eat. Of course, the only place to eat out is at the lodge. I knew quite a few of the customers, and was reminded of how difficult it is to avoid people in a small town. : )

I had nothing to do in the afternoon, so I decided to take a walk to the old graveyard. I'm not sure what the difference is between the two, but the old one is farther away. By the way, if someone could tell me the significance of using white, wooden crosses as grave markers in this area, I would greatly appreciate it. I decided to do some reflection while I was there, because I am approaching the halfway point of my stay in Cambridge Bay. I realized that I have done very well (if I do say so myself) at recognizing community needs and social "problems." I have even attempted to address some of these issues through my work at the Heritage Society, with the environmental class and in more social situations. However, though I've improved my abilities to observe and inquire about social issues, I realize that I've done very little introspection since I've been here. Though I may not share my revelations here, I hope use my time to define my passions and what I imagine for my future, as well as how I can use what I have learned this summer to apply to my Duke experience and the communities I will be a part of in the future.

The white, wooden crosses are wonderful, wondrous works

Later, I finally got to meet the lady I will be housesitting for, beginning tomorrow (address is still the same, though). Housesitting is a very popular thing here, so when I told Marg that I was going to have to pay to stay in an abandoned hotel building, she suggested that I contact this lady, who was in need of someone to take care of her cats for two weeks. I readily agreed (did I mention how creepy my residence is?) and after visiting her today, I am even more glad, because I will have access to a slow cooker and spices! Such luxuries will allow me to eat more than sandwiches and ramen noodles! : )

No Pictures, Just Sex

After a long week of work, all I wanted to do today was sleep. I did manage to get a few other things accomplished (my dirty laundry was threatening to take over my room), but thoroughly enjoyed my lazy day. I began my day by watching a movie and then decided to investigate a sex book.

Perhaps I should explain: A few days ago, I was helping the librarian clean off some bookshelves, when she pointed out a book entitled "Going All the Way For the First Time." She mentioned that her 9-year old was beginning to ask questions about "female issues" and that she thought it was about time for "the talk." I could not help but think to myself, "she's only 9 years old! She's not supposed to know that sex even happens!"

My boss Renee taught 5th grade last year, so I asked her what sex education is like here. Just like in the States, 5th grade is the point in children's educations where they get to have what my elementary school called "family life classes." However, in comparing notes with Renee, I found that my experience was very different than the way the kids are taught here. Back home, we were split up into a guys class and girls class. I'm not sure about the guys, obviously, but in the girls class we only talked about the menstruation cycle. Nothing about guys, nothing about sex (I guess we were supposed to figure that out for ourselves?); and we were expressly told not to tell the boys what we had learned. Renee said that here, boys and girls are taught together and they learn about both male and female issues. They even had a party at the end of their learning called a "menstruation celebration," although why anyone would want to celebrate that is beyond me!

The next day, I walked into a classroom and saw a 7th grade boy reading this book. I was again appalled that someone so young should be exposed to such ideas. Then again, I did not know what was in the book, so I decided to read it for myself, to see what ideas these kids are being exposed to.

I was quite surprised at what I read, although I probably would have been somewhat unprepared for anything about the subject, considering my state takes an "abstinence only" approach to sex education. : ) Though the book was not religious in nature, it did support abstinence, but mainly in that one should wait until he/she is "ready" to have sex. It also did a great job of explaining the different types of STDs and birth control options. Although I only skimmed over the STD chapter, I thought the birth control chapter was very well-written. It gave information on how to use each kind and their pros and cons, including their failure rates. This is very important information for a sexually active teenager; I was glad to see it presented in such a humorous and easily accessible manner. The book also included a chapter written for homosexuals. Some parts of the book, however, I did not think appropriate for someone young to be reading. For example, though the book emphasized that the definition of sex depends on who you talk to, it detailed a lot of ways that people engaged in non-intercourse sex, which makes me worry that kids will become sexually active simply because they think there is no "risk" involved.

Overall, the book (and Canadian sex education classes) took a very "sex is beautiful, sex is good" attitude which I admit I felt a little uncomfortable with. Perhaps it is because I grew up in a conservative community, in a conservative church, that I prefer the "not talking about it" approach. : ) I do understand, though, that not every young person chooses to abstain, so it is important that they are made aware of the risks associated with being sexually active and how to prevent unwanted pregnancies.

After reading the book, I have to wonder how the more liberal Canadian approach to sex education influences the prevalent social issues in Nunavut, like the higher rates of teenage pregnancy, suicide and alcoholism. It also makes me wonder how much the lack of religion in Nunavut contributes to these issues, especially considering that the presence of religion would encourage abstinence and perhaps encourage positive social change.

In other news, since the spring has arrived, there have been tons and tons of seagulls constantly flying by my residence. It sounds like someone is dying. : )

Dey's Uh, Char-Kabobs, Char Creole, Char Gumbo...

I was invited earlier in the week to go ice-fishing with the 6th grade class today, so after setting the environmental class up with their assignment, I headed out on the land. I could not help but think that going out on the land for a field trip is much cooler than any of my elementary school field trips! Mary Avalak showed me how to jig (the fishing contraptions are called "jiggers") and left me to my fishing hole. Not even five minutes after I had started, I felt something tugging at the end of my line! I pulled up my line quickly, hand after hand, until I dragged out a two foot long Arctic char! I have to admit, I was very proud of my accomplishment. The rest of the day, the adults helping with the field trip told me that I was extremely lucky to have caught one. It was one of only three fish caught that day and the only char caught this week! They recommended that I save some of it to make pipsi (dried char), and that I use the rest to make it cooked, for chowder, barbecued, etc. Later today, as I walked the streets of Cambridge Bay with the dead fish limp in my hands, I could not help but laugh at the fact that this fish could not have been caught by a more ungrateful or at least, unknowledgeable, fisherperson. : )

My char

Unfortunately, my first time at playing Inuit baseball was not so successful. During lunch (which consisted of caribou stew and bannock!), the kids invited me to play the game, which is the same as kickball, except there are only two bases. I quickly discovered that the tricky part of playing is not learning the rules...the tricky part is attempting to run in thick rubber-soled snow boots. When it was my turn, I rather awkwardly kicked the ball and took off towards the base. However, as I was halfway there, the rubber boots became too much for me to handle. With each step, I felt myself sinking deeper and deeper until I face-planted into the snow! Though I was laughing hysterically, the kids were extremely kind to me, saying "good try, Abbey!" : )

The kids hop in the komatik to head back to school

Cameron and Renee and I grabbed dinner together at the Youth Centre barbecue, held in honor of the Youth Centre re-opening. All the kids are very excited that they will have another social venue in town. The new Youth Centre has computers, a foosball table, a pool table, some couches, board and video games and a kitchen. I'm hoping to volunteer a little more with the Youth Centre while I'm here.

Speaking of youth, I have managed in my short time here to pick up some of the latest sayings from the kids. The first is "ohhh, good to know." This is a good one to use when someone says something that you already know. For example, your parent says, "make sure you pick up dinner right after school because the co-op closes at 5." You respond, "ohhh, good to know." My favorite phrase they use is "I lie." One kid, Brent, uses this on me all the time. He'll say, "Abbey, you can't sit here because Tyler is sitting here." Then he'll wryly grin, look up at me sheepishly and say, "I lie."

Brent plays pool at the Youth Centre re-opening

I have noticed that besides the usual "eh" and occasional pronounciation differences, Canadians don't speak that much differently than Americans. However, I have noticed that I have picked up the practice of ending phrases with an upward inflection in my voice, regardless of whether I am asking a question. Sometimes, I hear myself closing my vowels too, although I am trying to retain a little southern drawl

What Do You Mean "We," White Man?

Something about Thursdays makes the environmental students more productive. Today, they discovered the costs of shipping the recyclables out of Cambridge Bay via both airlines and sea can shipping companies (sea cans are big metal containers used to ship supplies on the bi-yearly barges). This means the students are much closer to being able to provide the hamlet council with a cost-analysis of each recycling program option. Option 1 is to fly the cans to Yellowknife, NWT on either Canadian North or First Air flights. This will cost $2.75 per kilogram, but if we can figure out a way to get the beverage containers to the Yellowknife Beverage Refund Program, we will receive $.10 per container! Option 2 is to ship the cans out on a barge. The cost of renting a sea can is $500 per can; to ship one costs about $5,000. However, the shipping companies that run the barges have been known to donate to charitable causes, so there is the possibility that these prices may be lowered if a negotiation is made. Option 3 is that Cambridge Bay would build its own recycling facility. I advised the students not to worry about a cost-analysis of this option; that is something for a professional to determine.

Pia phones Canadian North to ask about shipping costs

I may have mentioned this before, but it is very important that the students are the ones that present this to the hamlet council, not only because it was their idea in the first place, but because they are members of the Cambridge Bay community. It would mean nothing for yet another white person (me) to come in and tell these people how to live. They are (understandably) a little resentful of being told they need to change. However, if the youth of this community say that recycling is something they want to see happen, policymakers will be more inclined to listen and value their opinions.

Before BN Duke and Trinity scholars depart for our Summer of Service, we discuss this idea that one should not enter a community with the expectation of "changing" it him or herself, and that we will probably not be welcome if we attempt to do so. I feel this idea is even more relevant in aboriginal communities. After centuries of white people attempting to change their cultures and "better" their lives, they are taking back their communities. With the establishment of Nunavut in 1998, Inuit regained control of their lands, this time through the government. Still, a little resentment against outsiders persists. Though I have not encountered much of this sentiment, my boss Renee, a white person managing the Heritage Society, certainly has. Though her intentions are good, she occasionally receives criticism because she is not a longstanding member of the community. It makes me wonder at the impact I would have if I chose to serve in an aboriginal community in the future. Would I be able to contribute, or would I be unfairly criticized for my involvement?

Earlier this week, a woman from the community donated some dolls to the Heritage Society. These dolls, made of soapstone and caribou skins, come as a family set dressed in traditional clothing. More importantly, they were made by Mabel Angulalik! Stephen Angulalik was the first Inuk fur trader, and Mabel was known as a strong, dedicated and charitable woman. This afternoon, the kindergarten class taught by Emily Angulalik (Stephen and Mabel's daughter) came to the Heritage Society. After showing them traditional Inuit clothing, we pulled out the dolls to show the kids and surprise Emily. As Renee opened the lid to the box containing the dolls, Emily's eyes widened. She lifted her hands to cover her mouth, gaping in disbelief. Renee told the kids to ask Emily who made the dolls, and Emily answered that she remembered her mom making those dolls when she was the same age as her students. She held the dolls to her chest and began to cry, accusing Renee of showing her the dolls precisely to elicit such a reaction. : ) It was an extremely touching moment. I realized just how important the small pieces of history at the Heritage Society can be to members of the Cambridge Bay community. What was just a doll to me was a moving, cherished memory to Emily. As an outsider staying in this community for only a few weeks, I may not be able to fully appreciate or understand Inuit culture by the time I leave. I hope, though, that my efforts will enable Inuit to more appreciate and embrace their culture. That would be well worth the effort, indeed.

Emily fondly clutches the dolls

I want to share this article I found on CNN, entitled "Arctic may hold twice the oil previously found there," with all of you as well. Particularly interesting are the comments made towards the end of the article regarding the environmental impacts of drilling in the Arctic, which include leakage of contaminants into the ocean. On the other hand, communities in the Arctic may experience increased prosperity due if such oil reserves exist. This is just another example of an environmental issue with no clear right or wrong answer. I am looking forward to seeing how the debate over whether to drill for oil in the Arctic unfolds.

In (much) less serious news, I cut my hair by myself for the first time yesterday. I just did my bangs and they do not look too bad! There is no hairdresser in town, so I decided to just do it myself, against the advice of every hairdresser I have ever known. : )

Okpiks, Puppies and Poutin

The environmental class got a lot of work done today, but I am still a little concerned about the progress they are making. They have plenty of time left to finish it, but I'm not sure they realize how much information they are going to need in order to convince the community that recycling is necessary.

In the afternoon, we helped finish up the craft project with the 6th grade class. They are a blast to work with! They were trying to convince me to go to the youth dance this weekend, which is being held in conjunction with the re-opening of the Youth Centre! I am very excited about this weekend; if you have been reading my blog you know that there are few social opportunities for Cambridge Bay youth. Hopefully, the new Youth Centre will fulfill the need for entertainment options in this community.

Liam shows off his okpik (snowy owl)

It's been a hard past few weeks, so some of the staff at the Heritage Society decided to have a group date to celebrate their being over! Renee, Brendan, Cameron (a high-schooler who works in the library), Richard (a 6th-grader who comes to the library every day), and I first went to the Quik Stop (my first time!) for dinner. The Quik Stop is the only fast food joint in town and serves KFC and Pizza Hut, as well as candy and slurpies. I refrained from ordering poutin, the Canadian version of biscuits and gravy. Poutin is a dish of fries with cheese and gravy. It looks a little disgusting, but is actually quite good (in moderation)!

Brendan, Renee, Cameron, me and Richard at the Quik Stop

Brendan has been talking all this week about a litter of puppies he walks by on the way to work, so of course we had to go see them. They were husky puppies and were sooooo cute! : )

This one was my favorite

Our group date ended at the game hall, the late night popular hang-out spot for teens in Cambridge Bay. The game hall has foosball, air hockey, pinball, etc. as well as candy, cookies and soft drinks for sale. Richard led us to a touch-screen thing that had a bunch of video games on it; we must have played for an hour! My favorite was the word find game, which Renee, Richard and I furiously worked on together as the clock counted down. They helped me choose and eat some new Canadian candy bars to try. I ended up with a Wonderbar (peanut butter middle covered in caramel and chocolate...amazing!) and Glossettes (chocolate-covered almonds...also amazing!). After trying them, I spent the next few minutes calculating in my head how much money it would cost me to ship a big box of candy back to North Carolina. : )

I now wish I was not aware of the amazing candy selection at the game hall

It was a most necessary relaxing day. : )

Governor General in Da House

The town of Cambridge Bay was all astir today, because a most important visitor was on her way. Cadets practiced their parade, Mary and Tommy prepared for their drum dancing and the cooks at the lodge worked hard on their edible vegetable arrangements. All this work would be well worth the opportunity to meet Canada's governor general in person! Michaelle Jean herself visited Cambridge Bay today!

The governor general is higher-ranked than Canada's prime minister and is considered the envoy to the Queen of England. Though most people consider hers to be a "puppet-like position," she is a well-respected and well-educated woman. Her plane was late to Cambridge Bay, so she only had time to visit the Youth Centre (it's re-opening this weekend!!) and eat at the lodge. My host, the assistant manager at the lodge, said Her Excellency was extremely down to earth and that the whole party immensely enjoyed themselves. Unfortunately, I did not get to meet the governor general, though later found out that I could have. : (

Speaking of the Governor General, everyone here is talking about the controversy surrounding her Rankin Inlet visit, where she was taught how to butcher a seal and ate raw seal heart. You can read the articles for yourself...here's the BBC version and the CBC version. I consider myself extremely lucky to be in the North while this story unfolds. I think the whole thing is a little ridiculous, personally. Critics are condemning it as her condoning seal hunting, when in actuality, she was simply experiencing an important part of Inuit culture. She is, after all, a Canadian politician; one who should embrace all of the cultures in her country.

The Governor General and her husband eat raw seal heart in Rankin Inlet

For those of you not familiar to the debate, most of the opposition is against the practices of commercial seal hunters in Newfoundland, who have been portrayed as clubbing baby seals to death. While I am not familiar with their methods, I can tell you that the way Inuit harvest seal cannot hardly be called inhumane. Think about this: when you eat a hamburger, where does it come from? Most of the time, the animal you are eating has been pumped full of hormones and forced to live in a crowded cell where it has no room to even turn around. For example, the breed of chicken used for commercial processing can no longer copulate on its own because its reproductive organs are so large due to hormone injections. Yet here, seals are allowed to live in their natural environments, free of human interferences. When they are killed, no part of them is wasted, because every part provided humans here with life-essential nutrients not otherwise available (citrus fruits with vitamin C don't grow that well in the Arctic). Their skins are the only things that kept humans warm in this kind of environment. True, during modern times, things like synthetic fabrics and citrus fruits are available to people here. However, there are more negative environmental impacts concerning these modernities, like the enormous carbon footprints associated with shipping kiwis here from New Zealand.

Obviously, the EU ban will negatively affect the economy and the well-being of Nunavummiut (Nunavut citizens). What some people do not recognize, however, is the impact the ban will have on their culture. Yet again, people are judging their culture as something inhumane and "neanderthal" (see below), when in actuality, their actions are more natural than ours.

Regardless of my opinion, I think it important that PETA get a new spokesperson. Their vice president was quoted as saying, "It sounds like she's [the governor general] trying to give Canadians an even more Neanderthal image around the world than they already have." What a way to convince people that you're morally correct.

The third grade class visited us today to play traditional Inuit games. This one involves scooting on your backside. : )

This morning, one of the environmental students was very excited because she was going to meet the Governor General. I asked if she was part of the Cadets and she replied, "no, I'm getting to meet her because I was in the Arctic hip-hop video." "Really?" I said. "What video is this?" She explained that about a year ago, a hip-hop group came to Cambridge Bay to hold a weeklong workshop for the high school students. I asked if I could borrow the video and she brought it to me immediately after school. I was not prepared for how powerful the video would be.

It was a documentary that chronicled the week-long workshop run by the Canadian Floor Masters, a group that teaches hip-hop while also discussing social issues specific to the youth they are dealing with. The video also featured two students, Eric (the one I mentioned in a previous blog) and the girl who gave me the video, Shannon. I don't know whether I was more touched by the issues the CFM discussed, like bullying and suicide, or the stories of these two kids who I knew, but never talked with about their personal lives.

Eric's mom works in a mine outside of Cambridge Bay. She works in two-week cycles; working for two weeks and coming home for two weeks. When she is gone, Eric stays with his friend's family. I really enjoyed hearing Eric rap at the end of the week "battle." : )

Shannon was 21 and in the 11th grade when the video was filmed. She is a single mom and came back to school to finish her education. Her part of the video was the most touching; she described her struggle with suicidal thoughts and her desire to help the other youth of Cambridge Bay with their struggles.

The video was really eye-opening for me, because even though I knew many of the students struggle with difficult issues, I had yet to associate these problems with a face (besides Jorden's speech at the suicide awareness meeting). These kids, though seemingly well-adjusted, were living lives I couldn't even begin to comprehend. It reminded me that until I deeply invest myself in a community, living with its people and becoming deeply interested in them, I will not be able to understand what they face. However, the fact that this group came into the community for only a week and made such a huge difference reminded me that good intentions produce good results, and that showing people you care is sometimes the best investment you can make in a community.

Happy Memorial Day!

Firstly, I’d like to wish all of you a happy Memorial Day! I hope you had a great day off and remembered me as I worked. : ) Many thanks to our servicemen and servicewomen who have died for America and all that it stands for.

Sure, it was 8:45 in the morning…yes, it was 8:45 on a Monday morning…but I would have thought that at least two people would have showed up on time for the environmental class. As it was, five of them eventually trickled in, but it was very difficult to accomplish anything, since I had to explain the tasks to a student five times. This recycling project experience has been great for showing me the attitudes regarding education here, as well as the difficulties of being a teacher in this community. I have seen how enthusiastic the students can be when they are given responsibilities and opportunities to encourage changes in their communities. On the flip side, I have also seen how low a priority school is to them. To be honest, I think this is the one Northern issue that I will never fully be able to comprehend. I understand the reasons why the past has led to this current state, but I do not understand why this generation does not believe it can change.

Today marked the circulation of the second edition of the Cambridge Bay weekly newsletter. I, along with other community members, was taken aback by the the RCMP (Canadian police force) briefs included in this edition. Not surprisingly, all of the incidents, which included impaired driving, domestic assaults and drug possession, were all somehow related to excessive alcohol consumption. The shocking part of it all was that the ages of the victims and accused were included, as well as the streets on which they live. In a community this small, it will not take long to figure out who these people are. Perhaps this is a good thing, though; maybe people will adjust their actions accordingly.

Just in case you’re wondering after reading the above paragraph, Cambridge Bay is an extremely safe community. Random acts of violence simply do not occur here (sadly, incidents are usually between family members). Even stealing, though it occurs, seems to occur less frequently. For example, the students at the high school leave their muddy boots and athletic shoes at the door. They may borrow other people’s shoes for gym class, but they always put them back, and no one cares. This system still amazes me, but rather appreciate the fact that I can leave my shoes at the door and come back at the end of the day to discover them right where I left them.

Shoes

Speaking of shoes, I broke out my rainboots for the first time today because the puddles are threatening to take over the town! : ) I never thought I would say this, but I am a little sad to see the ice go.

Monster Puddle

After work, I went to the gym for the first time. Tucked in the corner of the hamlet offices, it is a one room facility with weights, two ellipticals and two stationary bikes. I was a little surprised there weren’t any treadmills, but more surprised that I was the only person there for most of my workout. Eventually, another girl about my age came in as well, and since she had an iPod, I shut off the radio in the corner which I had turned on to keep me company. I chose from the three available stations, which included talk radio, more talk radio, and a local station that plays old country and folk music, with a little ABBA and Seal sprinkled in. Let me tell you, working out to Bob Dylan and “Just a Closer Walk With Thee” is quite an experience! While I was working out, I thought of an idea: If you have some free time and enough money for shipping, I would love it if someone could send me an audio tape of their favorite workout music! The old boombox in the gym only plays tapes, and as much as I love working out to Bob Dylan, I would love your contribution more!

My mailing address is:
Abbey Bucher
Box 1209
Cambridge Bay, Nunavut XOBOCO

By the way, if you’d like to listen to a Northwestern Territories station online, you can go to nscnwt.com...This isn’t the same one I was listening to, but it is aboriginal programming!

Arctic Ninja Astronauts

Our crew out on the land

Today was the third day of caribou hunting for me, Randy, David and Helen. Kelly, the other teacher who has been going out on the land with me and Randy, came along yesterday and today as well. I've been "out on the land" numerous times, but today's trip was special; not only because David shot two caribou, but because I was finally warm! Now that I've figured out the secret to success, I will share with you what it takes to make it in the North.

Necessary gear for a Southerner to survive in the Arctic (or, more precisely, to go ski-dooing and be warm):

*Thick rubber boots (not rainboots, but mega thick, wool-lined boots)= A few sizes too big to create space for warmth
*Toe warmers/hand warmers= An Inuk does not need such things. You, however, do.
*Thick wool socks= The "extreme winter weather" kind from an outdoors store
*Underarmor leggings= Anything loose. I've found that the kind with elastic in the bottom restrict your circulation and, consequently, make your feet cold.
*Sweatpants= The looser the better
*Double layer ski pants= Mine have a windbreak layer and a thick layer for warmth
*Underarmor shirt= Turtlenecks are better
*Hoodie= Better to be a bit big, and the hood is a must!
*Sweater/shirt for on top of the hoodie= Yes, at this point, one does feel a little suffocated
*Cotton gloves= Any other kind are not that great for doing outdoorsy stuff
*Leather mitts with wool lining= Mitts are better than gloves for keeping your hands warm...I like to wear gloves underneath so I can remove my mitts to eat and take pictures but not expose my hands directly to the cold air
*Toboggan/toque/beanie= Doesn't matter what you call it, just make sure you have one!
*Neckwarmer= An Arctic essential, these tube-like pieces of clothing fit over your neck and lower head. They're great for covering your nose and mouth on the ski-doo to prevent windburn.
*The monstrous goose down coat= Though they probably weigh twenty pounds each, these coats are absolutely necessary to get around in the North. Everybody has one, so you won't feel silly, even though you look like a teletubby. They have a million pockets and a hood with fur around the edges that blocks the wind from your face as you ski-doo.

After donning all of these items, you will look like an astronaut. Interestingly enough, NASA does testing in some parts of the Arctic because the temperatures are the closest (anywhere on Earth) to the environment on Mars!

Another note about using fur to keep warm: The first Canadian pilots used Inuit clothing to keep warm, including wolf mitts, a pair of which are on display at the Canadian Aviation Museum.

Me modeling the latest Arctic fashions...or being an Arctic ninja!

Today was another day of firsts in that I ate seal and caribou marrow for the first time. Just in case you're wondering, seal tastes like tuna, and caribou marrow tastes disgusting (it's pretty tasteless, actually, but the consistency is gross). I never imagined that marrow would be edible. Evidently, it is high in vitamin C, and an important part of the Inuit diet since the Arctic lacks fruits and vegetables that ward off scurvy.

After a dinner of caribou, Helen showed Kelly how to use an ulu (a knife special to Inuit culture) to cut meat for drying. That's right; the raw meat will dry for a few days before it is ready to eat. It will be quite an experience for me to eat frozen (raw) caribou. All the kids at school have been telling me how good it is. They also recommend caribou tongue and caribou brain (no, Mom, Prion's disease doesn't happen this far north, and not in caribou). However, I think I will probably leave the Arctic not having eaten caribou brain, yet still feeling like I had a full experience here.

The Majestic Muskox

I think I have finally been initiated into the Cambridge Bay community. This morning, I walked past a sewage truck for the first time (I'll let your nasal imaginations take over from there). You see, residents of Cambridge Bay have their water delivered to them by truck, and their sewage disposed of the same way. If water were pumped to each house, it would freeze in the pipes. This way, the city can heat one central pump and ensure that water is made available to everyone. A con to this system is that each house is allotted a certain amount of water, so if you run out in the middle of your shower, too bad! After today's experience, I would have to say that another con is the smell of the sewer trucks.

Today, I basically went for a very long ski-doo ride. It was supposed to be another attempt at caribou hunting, but we didn't get close to any. There were a few off in the horizon at one point, but we did not pursue them, probably because the Arctic horizon is much, much, much, much further away than a horizon you and I are used to. I wish there was a way to accurately portray in a picture how expansive the sky is here. Due to the sparse vegetation and very flat ground, one can see for at least twenty miles in every direction. What you think is a rock on a hill thirty yards away turns out to be a boulder seventy yards away. : ) It's quite confusing. Even more fascinating is how guides like David manage to know their way around when the landscape is covered in snow and ice like it is now.

David looking for caribou, or figuring out where we are, or perhaps just admiring the scenery...not really sure

We turned back after about two hours of ski-dooing. On the return, we saw a muskox herd in the distance performing their defense mechanism. When muskoxen feel threatened, they form a circle so each of them are facing the outside. The babies stay in the center of the circle. A few minutes later, we surmounted a hill to run into a muskox herd only about thirty yards away! They ran away from our ski-doos, and it struck me that they moved similarly to buffalo. The imagery of the herd running together across the frozen tundra and then forming a defense circle was one of the most beautiful acts of nature I have ever seen (I was so in awe, I didn't take any pictures). Sure, zoos are great for educational purposes, but I am convinced now that to see animals in their natural habitats has got to be one of the greatest gifts humans have been given. In my mind, the muskox transformed from one of the ugliest creatures I had ever seen to one of the most majestic.

This picture is from Randy, who notes that the photographer (his uncle) got way too close to the muskoxen for his own good

With the arrival of 24-hour daylight, it has become even more difficult to sleep regularly. Sometimes my body insists on a nap at 7:30 pm or I don't feel like sleeping until 1:30 am. Randy says the opposite happens in the winter...everyone sleeps all the time! : ) Since many people have been inquiring about what 24-hour darkness is like, I have been asking people here how they cope. I was first reminded that 24-hour darkness does not mean 24-hour pitch black darkness; there is twilight a majority of the time. You can see where you're going, basically. However, people take great care to shine lights on their faces during work to stimulate vitamin D production and ward off the inevitable depression that accompanies darkness. Of course, the temperature is bitter cold; it gets down to -40 and -50 degrees Celsius regularly. The thick, goose-down jacket that I am wearing to ski-doo in would evidently only barely keep me warm in winter weather. According to teachers, students will often miss class in the winter because they are sleeping, in the same way that they miss class in the spring to go hunting.

Another one of Randy's pictures: I love how this winter sunrise scene shows the vastness of the sky and the never-ending horizon

Intestines, Anyone?

Now I know why I was told to bring a pair of rainboots. The temperatures have been rising lately, so the ice on the roads is starting to melt. There are puddles everywhere. A consequence of the melting is that ski-doos are now forced to drive on sidewalks and cut through yards...off-roading indeed!

Renee told me this morning that I could take the rest of the day off since there wasn't much going on, but I decided to stick around (did I mention how creepy my place of residence is?). Good thing I did, because in the afternoon we gave Renee a surprise birthday party! It was fun to watch Lena, one of the elders, play with the balloons we blew up. Lena lived in Bay Chimo, a small community near Cambridge Bay, until she moved to Cambridge Bay about four years ago. She grew up in a family which ignored gender boundaries; her parents taught her to hunt, fish and skin animals in addition to sewing and cooking. Bay Chimo was not exposed to modern society like Cambridge Bay, so there are stil some things Lena is getting used to. For example, last week, the mural artist made a photocopy of a painting of an ulu to use as a template. When the artist began to cut the ulu out of the photocopy, Lena began to cry! She thought the artist was cutting the actual painting! Today, at the birthday party, Lena played with the balloons like a little kid, throwing them at people and sticking them to herself. She is very cute. :)

Lena and her balloons

I left work early today to go caribou hunting with Randy and a family he knew. David, Helen and Brian took us ski-dooing out on the land to points I had never been to before. I was very glad that we had experienced guides with us, because it snowed yesterday and it became difficult to even tell the difference between the sky and the land at some points. David was a man of few words. Every twenty minutes or so, he would stop the ski-doo caravan, walk out a few yards, and just stare off into the distance. To a kublunuk (white person) like myself, it was awe-inspiring. After about an hour, we looked behind us and realized Brian was missing. After ski-dooing back to find him, we discovered that his ski-doo had broken down. We heaved it on top of the komatik and headed back to Cambridge Bay along the beach, and I was a little disappointed that we did not find success with a caribou.

However, on the way back, during a break, I looked over and saw a seagull swooping down on something on the beach about fifty yards away. When we went to go investigate, we discovered a cute baby seal! The pup had lost its hole in the ice which it had obviously been searching for it for a long time, because its fur was frozen all over. The poor thing was being attacked by the seagull because it was on the verge of death. Each of us looked for its hole for a few minutes, but never found it. And so...

It's so cute!

I also got to see my first seal skinning tonight (animal rights activists and weak-stomached people: read no further)! David did it in less than twenty minutes. I didn't get naseous, but had to look away when he was working on the face. He divvied up the edible parts, which included the ribs, liver and intestines. I was a little grossed out by the fact that David took a bite of liver in the middle of the skinning. I knew raw meat provides more nutrition than cooked meat and that frozen raw caribou is a local favorite, but I could not imagine having to eat the blood as well. Evidently, though, seal's blood causes a warming sensation and is therefore quite useful on the land.

I couldn't help but tear up a little when I realized we were going to kill the seal. True, it was probably the most humane way it could have died, compared to being eaten by the seagull or freezing to death. Seals of the Arctic are not endangered, and in this kind of environment, few things provide nutrition and warm fur like seals and caribou. While killing seals is highly controversial, it strikes me that there are significantly fewer people crying "save the newt!" though amphibian populations are in sharp decline. Why protect only the cute animals? : )

Anyway, the whole experience tonight exposed me firsthand to subsistence living and made me think deeply about the differences between this and modern food culture. Is it really better for us to eat pesticide-sprayed fruits instead of eating around the worms? Why do we ignore the piece of food dropped on the grass? What is so horrible about killing animals for food if we need the nutrients to survive? "Living off the land" is totally natural to an Inuk like David, who worked silently as I snapped pictures in amazement.

A little gross, but amazing

Abandon Ship!

Sea ice frozen along the Arctic coast

"And who are you?" I asked Jordan, as he stood facing me, video camera in hand. He glanced at me sideways, squinting. "If you're going to approach random people in the supermarket with a camera in hand, you had better introduce yourself!" I exclaimed, as Jordan smiled sheepishly. Before I sent some of the boys in the environmental class to the Northern store to interview community members about whether they would support a recycling program, I emphasized the importance of shaking hands and looking people in the eye. "And I want you back by the end of class with some interviews to show for it!" I called after them as they walked out of the door, feeling a little too teacher-ish, but loving every minute of it.

I then assigned tasks to the other students in the class. We brainstormed about how the project would be carried out (where the recycling would be collected, what airlines we should contact, what communities we would ship the recyclables to, etc.), looked up bin options and researched the recycling programs in Yellowknife and Kugluktuk. The students made some very promising discoveries, including that Yellowknife, the city we were investigating sending our recyclables to, has a refundable beverage container program in addition to their recycling facilities. This means Cambridge Bay could receive some direct monetary benefits from a recycling program involving shipments to Yellowknife. They also found that Kugluktuk, the closest community to Cambridge Bay and the second largest town in the Kitikmeot region, has a recycling program that involves saving recyclables year-round, shipping them off by barge in the summer.

I was extremely impressed by how hard the students worked. I think that this project is exciting for them because they each have responsibilities to fulfill; something to accomplish that contributes to the project’s overall success. If they keep making as much progress as they did today, they will be finished with this project by the end of next week!

After work, Randy (a 7th grade teacher at the high school) took me exploring by ski-doo. We went to the “old town,” which is located across the river from where Cambridge Bay now sits. The community of Cambridge Bay began to develop like most communities in the North. When trading posts were built in the North, people began to flock to them, staying for longer and longer periods of time. The “old town” was built around one of these trading posts, but in the 1950’s, the entire town burned down. Since the DEW (Distance Early Warning) Line Station had already been built by that point, it was a logical decision to move the town across the river, closer to the DEW Line (DEW line stations were built during the Cold War, to protect North America from the Russians. I will write more about them later). The only remains of the “old town” are the “old stone church” and the Eagle.

Until last year, the old stone church had a roof. Unfortunately, it burnt down, evidently fairly quickly since it was composed of wood and animal skins. Much of the walls of the Catholic church remain, but are difficult to preserve since they consist of seal oil and other uncommon building materials. : )

The "old stone church"

The last priest of the church is known for his paying an exorbitant price to haul a leaky ship from his home to Cambridge Bay. Now, the Eagle sits about 50 yards from the old stone church, abandoned but still displaying the paint job which bears its name.

Not quite as large as the Titanic, but the same dramatic effect

Randy and I then went to the other side of town to visit the barge that contains the airport and DEW line station’s fuel (stuck in the ice), the gravel pit (which is covered by ice at this time of year), and the Arctic Ocean (more ice).

When we got back to Randy’s, we cooked up some gourmet Ragu and pasta. Randy is a great guy to talk to, and we discussed everything from hunting practices to American politics and Russian history. As a teacher, he is an outsider to the community, so I feel comfortable talking about my observations and revelations with him in a way that I cannot with longtime community members. For example, today we discussed the spending habits of people in Cambridge Bay which are typical of lower class societies, although I would not consider this community to be one. Members of the lower class tend to spend their money on short-term investments, like cars or entertainment equipment. There is little saving occurring, perhaps due to the hunter-gatherer mentality of indigenous peoples which is satisfied simply knowing that there is enough food for the next day. According to Randy, these short-term spending habits were particularly evident a few months ago when the Canadian government passed out checks to people who had been sent to residential schools as children. Though the money probably did wonders for the local economy, the families were no better off now than they started, except for a couple of ski-doos, trucks and lots of drugs and alcohol. Randy opined that the government should not be handing money back to the Inuit, but to programs and businesses which support them. Though he is old enough to be my father (he has a son my age), Randy is my favorite person to hang out with in Cambridge Bay. He even lets me drive one of his ski-doos!

In other news, a heat wave passed through Cambridge Bay today! It was up to -3 degrees Celsius! And I felt warm! It's also the first day of 24-hour sunlight! As if that wasn't enough good news, a very important person is going to visit Cambridge Bay next week (drumroll please)! Stay tuned for more details.

Reduce Suicide, Reuse and Recycle

The environmental science teacher decided it would be best to work on the recycling project in the mornings, so I began my day brainstorming ideas with the students. I was afraid the process would be slow, but a few students, including an enthusiastic boy named Jordan, quickly spoke up to get the ball rolling. By the end of the fifty minute class period, the students had come up with topics to address in the video and a list of things to do for the project. One of the best parts of the brainstorming process was when a girl sitting in the back of the class, who seemed a little bored at first, began to chime in with her ideas about how the program should collect the recyclables and where we should get bins.

Another memorable moment took place after the students began to volunteer for tasks. I noticed a few people weren't volunteering to do anything, so I said, "You know, if nothing that we have listed so far interests you, then think about how you can incorporate your interests into this project. For example, if you don't know how to edit videos but you like to draw, perhaps we could figure out a way to use your animations in the video. Or, if you have always wanted to be on the radio, we could set up a time for you to talk on the air about the project." When I mentioned the radio idea, two previously unenthusiastic boys (actually, they're my age) perked up and volunteered for the job. I realized then that this project, in addition to bettering the Cambridge Bay community, is going to allow these students to develop practical skills: pitching an idea to the hamlet council, making calls to the airlines, interviewing community members, talking on a radio show...all of these parts of the process are going to prepare them for life in ways that "book learning" cannot.

Later this morning, the grade 4 class came into the Heritage Society to celebrate the end of their traditional sewing project with a tea party! They each told the elders why they were thankful for their help and posed for lots of pictures with their mittens. I am sad to see them go, because this class has been my favorite to work with.

Evidently I am "cool"

Some of the boys pose with their mittens

I heard it announced at school that there would be a suicide prevention meeting tonight, so I decided to check it out. The forty-person audience was composed mainly of middle-aged and older adults, but there were a few youth there as well. The purpose of the meeting was to discuss methods to reduce suicide, particularly through life affirmation and intervention strategies. When the microphone was handed over to the audience, I thought that the conversation would be limited to suggestions for new programs, but what surfaced was something much, much more powerful:

"I think literacy is important. Until a few years ago, when I went back to college to learn to read and write, I didn't know what literacy was. Now I know literacy is to be able to read and write. I think we need to have more programs to teach this to people because it makes people powerful."

"Hi, my name is Donna. When I was two years old, I was diagnosed with TB, taken from my parents and didn't see them until I was eight. I stayed in residential school until I was eighteen. I suffered physical, mental and verbal abuse, but thank God not sexual abuse...although it was almost all the same to me the way I was treated. I think we need a way to talk about our residential school experiences, because there are a lot of repressed emotions in this community that people need to talk about. There are a lot of people still hurting. Maybe if the youth hear about our experiences, they will take value their education more and take pride in all of the trials that Inuit have overcome."

"My grandson committed suicide, but we never saw it coming. He was quiet, so we never saw it coming."

"Meetings like these are great, they really are...but what we need is something lasting. I can't tell you how many community meetings like this that we've had that have left community members with more wounds than solutions."

"I am so glad that the RCMP (Royal Canadian Mounted Police) took me to jail. They kept me from succeeding at committing suicide. They saved me from myself."

"Hi, my name is Jordan*, and I am 17 years old. I attempted suicide when I was 14, after my parents divorced...Attempting suicide is something that you never recover from, but I have taken my life into my own hands and have started finding new ways to express my emotions, like through music. Two weeks ago, I received training on how to use video equipment. Now, I am having more opportunities to use the equipment and teach other students how to make videos. I think we need more programs like this; programs that teach students useful skills that make them feel useful."

*(For the record, this Jordan is the same Jordan from the environmental class. When he talked about the new opportunity for him to use his video filming and editing skills, he was referring to the recycling project!)

"What we need are more cultural programs, to preserve our language and our traditions. If we are losing our language, losing our culture and losing our identity, it won't be long before we lose our hope."

Before I came to Cambridge Bay, I read a lot about the high youth suicide rates in the Arctic. I researched and discussed social determinants for the staggering statistics. But I learned more from this meeting than any paper I could have read. The emotion in the voices of people who have been touched by this issue is the most powerful educational and empowering tool that Inuit have.

Three years later, Jordan is a smart young man with a lot to live for

"The Whole World is Watching You"

My hands trembled, my knees shook, a sweat broke out on my forehead...I was in the middle of pitching the idea for the recycling project to the high school environmental class when I realized that the half of the students weren't really listening to me. I thought, "If I, with all of my youthful enthusiasm, can't motivate these students, who can?" As I rattled off information about how human health is affected by burning waste, I thought, "What can I say to make these students care?"

"I don't know if you're aware of this," I said, "but the whole world is watching you right now."

The students stopped what they were doing and turned to look my way with questioning eyes.

"You are the ones who are going to experience climate change first. What happens in the North will show the rest of the world what is going to happen to them. Everyone is watching you to see what is happening. That's why this project is so important. You have the opportunity to set an example for the rest of the world, to show them how much you want to preserve this land and your community."

I hooked them. The students said they wanted to do the project, and I am hoping that each of them will find a way to utilize their talents to make it happen. For those of you who are new to this blog, let me explain: The town of Cambridge Bay does not have a recycling program, so all of its waste is burned at a dump. A few high school students said they wanted to start a recycling program for the town, so I volunteered to facilitate the project, which will include a video proposal to the mayor and hamlet council. The entire initiative will be carried out by students; the only thing I will do is look up funding opportunities, organize a field trip to the dump and ensure that the students are on task. If this project succeeds, Cambridge Bay will not only become a healthier place to live, it will set an example for other northern communities. I am so excited!

The 4th grade class came to the library today to finish up their mittens and read

The mural is finally completed and it is beautiful! Here's a look at the finished product:

All of the people in this mural are or were members of the Cambridge Bay community. The mural also includes pictures of tools which are important to Inuit culture.

I rented a Tae Bo video last week from the library and upon discovering a weird 80s movie had been taped over it, went running today instead. Let me tell you, going running in the Arctic is quite an experience! I managed not to slip too much and keep myself warm, but decided afterwards that I would go ahead and splurge on a gym membership. : )

Happy Victoria Day!

Happy Victoria Day! That's right, I celebrated my first Canadian holiday today! It was a special occasion because not only did I get off work, I also saw the biggest snowflakes of my life!

Today was also the last day of the Omingmak Frolics. There was a soup and stew competition around lunchtime, so I paid a few bucks to sample the entries and vote. There was also bannock included in the deal, so I definitely got my money's worth! On my way out, I was stopped by a 10th-grade boy named Eric, who wanted to know if he could hang out with me since he didn't have anything to do (before you get suspicious of his motives, let me explain that he spent the next twenty minutes telling me about how much he misses his girlfriend who broke up with him a few months ago). I didn't mind, especially since Eric is a Duke basketball fan (and a UNC fan, but we won't talk about that)! We walked out of the town to the cemetery, because I wanted to take some pictures before the snow melts. We talked about Canadian and American politics, college, music, and more serious issues, like suicide and teen pregnancy. Eric wants to be the first Inuk in the NBA, but he doesn't know if he will go to college. I encouraged him to go to college, but it felt strange. How do you explain to someone how wonderful college is if they have grown up in a culture where people have been successful without it?

Eric in the snowstorm with Cambridge Bay in the background

The graveyard trip was worth the walk. Eric knew how most of the people had died...snowmobile accidents, suicides, cancer...and the experience reminded me of how painful deaths can be to a small town.

Eric pays respects to his aunt

I attended the Frolics closing awards ceremony after dinner and then headed to the last night of the traditional music and games. The entertainment tonight was very special; an Inuivialuit dance group performed for us! It was fascinating to see their form of drum dancing in comparison to Copper Inuit (the Inuit of Cambridge Bay and Kugluktuk) drum dancing. Drum dancing in this region consists of one person with a drum stepping in a circle, beating the rims of the drum with one hand while flipping it with the wrist of the other hand. The Inuivialuit style had a drummer and several dancers, who stomped and made rhythmic movements with their arms that looked similar to arm movements in hula dancing. In fact, it is speculated that Hawaiian traders who came through the Inuvialuit region influenced their style of dancing.

Tommy Kaloudlik drum dancing in the Copper Inuit style

"Me?"

A view of the town with "the Ice" in the background

When I entered the Glad Tidings Church this morning, I immediately felt uncomfortable. Being surrounded by only four other members of a congregation is something I am not certain I will ever be accustomed to. The man leading the service played a bunch of praise music at the beginning and then there was an offering. The praise music made me more at ease, although without a bulletin, I had to stumble through some of the songs. Then, out of the blue, the man leading the service looked at me and said, "And now, we'll have our sister share her testimony." I looked at him, bewildered, and stammered, "Me?" I was very glad I had experience sharing my testimony before, because otherwise, I would have felt even more uncomfortable. After my awkward sharing time, the man gave a sermon, which consisted of flipping to a verse and listening to him summarize the verse in one or two sentences...for about twenty verses. It is interesting how differently people worship here. I cannot help but wonder if the rest of the congregation was as utterly uninspired as I was.

After the service, I headed to the pancake breakfast. It was delicious! However, as I sat alone at my table, I could not help but think of the differences in hospitality here and back home in the southern United States. I know for certain that the next time I meet someone who is new to a community, I will make an effort to welcome and befriend them, because it is a terrible feeling to be alone in a foreign place without someone to talk to.

I attempted to go to the seal skinning competition later today, but couldn't find the location. Evidently, there are multiple places called "the Ice" in Camridge Bay. : ) Instead, I watched some of the ski-doo races. It got pretty cold, so I went back home to watch a movie called Atanarjuat: The Fast Runner. It is the first film entirely in Inuktitut, which is the other Inuit language besides Inuinnaqtun. The movie is based on an Inuit legend (and too complicated to explain here). Unfortunately, some of the story was lost in translation and I had to read a synopsis afterwards to understand parts of the plot. However, it is a great view into ancient Inuit life and culture and has as much drama as any soap opera you would see on modern television. I definitely recommend it (as long as you realize it is rated R for a reason)!

A boy watches the ski-doo races

Proud to be an American?

Being a Saturday, the day got off to a slow start. It picked up quickly, though, when I went out on the land with some teachers. Yes, I do think it funny that I tend to socialize with people twice my age. We took the mural artist in a komatik to see the ocean, which is still frozen but noticeably melting at this point in the spring.

Randy and Jaucques enjoy a laugh

Tonight was the gourmet dinner that I had been waiting for all week! Chef David Adjey, who hosts Restaurant Makeover on The Food Network, came to Cambridge Bay to cook a meal using traditional foods. We had caribou, muskox and char in addition to other great dishes. Everything was delicious!

Jaucques enjoyed his Asian noodles

The entertainment of the night was provided by a man who terms himself "That Canadian Guy." Overall, he was very funny, but sometimes he tended to be offensive. At one point, he asked if there were any Americans in the room. I raised my hand, of course, and he asked where I was from. I told him "North Carolina," and he responded with a joke about getting through Canadian customs. He did say a few American jokes, which I will share with you:

"So what do you think of Americans, eh? It seems like they've finally got it right down there, electing Obama. (to crowd) Do you like that they've elected Obama? (crowd claps) You know, it's funny...I really didn't think they had it in them. I mean, look at the lineup. You've got an old, white guy (John McCain) and a young, black guy. Normally, their line-ups are all young, black guys."

(talking about the American-Canadian border) "I don't know why they call it "customs". It should be "immigration" or something. If it was really customs, we'd hand them a hockey jersey and a beer as they came across. Of course, if we were going to America, they'd hand us crack and a handgun."

This was my first experience hearing American stereotypes firsthand. The only negative encounter I have had was with an eighth grade boy who made it a point to show me a poster he made with an American flag on it. On top of the flag, scribbled in white-out, was the word "SUCKS". Otherwise, people here have been very guarded of their opinions of Americans and American politics around me. They hesitate to ask me questions about America, most of which are about the presidential election and racism. Sometimes I wish they would be more honest with me about how they feel about America, because I am curious as to how we are received in other parts of the world.

In other news, Charity (my host) and I have moved into our new residence, the Old Inns North building. This was the place in which I was to originally stay by myself. Now, however, I am not only living with Charity, but there is a cook who lives down the hall from us. I would be a lot more ecstatic about this living situation if the hallway didn't look like a scene from The Shining. It's pretty creepy. However, there is wireless internet and running water, so all of my basic needs are being met. : )

The beautiful (frozen) Arctic Ocean

Ouch!

It was hard to motivate myself to work today. Not only was it a Friday, but we all got off work after lunch because of the Frolics parade! It was quite fun and I was thrilled to recognize so many people on the floats, including one of my co-workers who volunteers with the Cadets. Cadets is the Canadian equivalent of JROTC, so I was very excited to see them in their full regalia marching in the front of the parade.

The Cadets

Tonight was the Cambridge Bay's Got Talent show! The acts included lots of singing, and some drum dancing, square dancing and line dancing. Between the kids and adult portions of the talent show, Renee presented Mary Kaloudlik's parka to the Cambridge Bay community. Mary is one of "the ladies" at the Heritage Society, and has worked for eight months to finish this parka made in the traditional style with traditional materials and a sunburst hood. As you can see, it is quite beautiful, and will be one of the Heritage Society's greatest treasures!

Mary and her parka

Another interesting thing about tonight was that it was the first time I've ever seen someone with Inuit tattooing in person. Interestingly, none of the elders I have met have tattooing, but it was evidently very popular among Inuit women in the past. The method used to tattoo sounds particularly painful. A needle is threaded through the skin, followed by a piece of stick dipped in oil and soot. It was common for tattoos to be located on the face (mostly radiating out from the center of the face, like in the picture) and hands.

An example of Inuit tattooing

After the talent show, I helped Renee with the canteen (concessions stand) for the family dance. It was quite a humbling experience, because it was the first time I had been around so many kids at one time. The same kids hung around for hours, constantly climbing over and sitting on the counter, yelling, asking for free stuff, asking to "help," etc. Certainly, some of them were very cute, especially a polite two-year-old named Iki with a squeaky voice. However, the majority of them were just too much to handle. I was quite...agitated. I finally explained to them that if they were going to hang around they were not allowed to yell, turn off the lights to the men's bathroom or touch the money. I think I scared the tar out of some kids who I kicked out of the kitchen for screaming at each other. As agitating as the night was, it taught me a lot about the importance of, or lack of importance of, discipline in this culture. Whereas in the culture I come from, the kids would be reprimanded if they screamed, the same is not true here. Of course, I am speaking in broad generalizations and this may not always the case. What I do know for certain, however, is that the entire experience made me think twice about having kids. : )

Party With Your Parents!

My main job today was taking pictures of the mural, which is turning out to be quite wonderful! What's even more exciting is that the public seems to be really enjoying it. Many people have stopped by the high school just to see it, and the mural artist cannot work five minutes without someone complimenting her on the work. It has been a real community effort; students, elders and random community members have been painting throughout the week! They even let me help, although after a while, the pressure got to me. I mean, after all, my mistakes will be there forever. I can just hear them saying, years from now, "You see that squiggly line there? That was that American girl." : )

Two of "the ladies" work on the mural

Talia and Bobbi work on the mural with the school in the background

I attempted to participate in the Frolics tonight, but found that other than the nightly traditional games and music, the events were geared mostly towards a younger crowd. I thought of what Renee told me yesterday about the Cambridge Bay Youth Centre (Canadian spelling, eh?). I mentioned it to her because I read about it before I came. I had found a magazine picture where a boy said he worked at the youth centre to give kids the opportunity to do things besides drugs and alcohol. Unfortunately, the youth centre was closed last year because the man in charge of it no longer works for the Wellness Centre. There are "teen dances" and sports arenas, but if teens are not involved in sports, there are few after-school activities available. One person was extremely shocked when I told them I was in a club in high school whose sole purpose was to volunteer. Though there are art and music classes, there are no after-school arts groups in the community whatsoever. Evidently, the Wellness Centre is considering re-opening the youth centre, but right now, there are very few constant social opportunities for youth in Cambridge Bay. Furthermore, there are hardly any social opportunities for people my age. There is "the Elks" on Friday nights, but you must enter that social scene only if you are prepared to party with your parents (seriously)! Since there are no restaurants or stores open past 6:00 pm, the social scene is quite limited. A lot of younger people have been visiting their families during Frolics, so I have been meeting a few younger people, but most of them are at least 25 years old. Fortunately, I am very mature for my age...maybe. : )

The model for this part of the mural was one of "the ladies" who works at the Heritage Society

P.S. If any of you have nothing better to do this summer, send me a letter! I would love to get some mail up here! I might even write you something back if I remember to check my post office box. : )

Abbey Bucher
Box 1209
Cambridge Bay, Nunavut XOBOCO